Serenading the Sahyadris: Five reasons why you should go Trekking in the Sahyadri Ranges

More than seventeen years back when my wife and I decided to shift base to Pune, it was driven by the need to move anywhere out of Mumbai and because, it was the closest city to our respective hometowns where I could find an employment. Pune, still a sleepy and quiet cantonment city then, had the small city charm we both were used to. However, we hadn’t given any consideration to some of the other riches the city had to offer in our decision.

Over the next decade and a half, as we made Pune our home our love for the city continued to increase, despite its rapid and at times ugly urbanization and growth. What was not to love about Pune. Culturally vibrant, historically significant, economically progressive, climatically pleasant and endowed with the bounties of nature.

Seeking Nirvana

If you are wondering what these meandering words about my love for Pune has to do with the this blog, let me cut to the chase. But not before I give you some back story.

Despite the fact that Pune is blessed with mountain ranges all around, before 2020 I had done just a handful of treks. Two labored treks to Sinhagad, Pune’s very own crowning glory and a couple more. Although I claim to be a nature freak, treks tired me. Trying to wake up early on a weekend felt like trying to lift a boulder off my chest, not to mention my stamina level that was hardly worth mentioning.

Anyways, come 2020 and Covid happened. Life came to a standstill; but work did not – ah! the irony. Confined to the house, doubled up over a laptop working fifteen hours on some days, took its toll. Cancelled vacay plans added salt to the wounds. When things eased a bit in June and we started with small hikes to our local Baner hills, just the sight of the lush rain kissed green hills was a shot in the arm to the pandemic stressed soul. As out-station travel was still out of question, it is then that we decided that why not discover the natural treasures that Pune had to offer.

We started with our first trek to Malhargad, a ruined fortress from the eighteenth-century Maratha Peshwa regime, just 30 kms from Pune and a fairly easy trek for beginners. We were treated to some magnificent views of the landscape that soothed the eyes that were parched from prolonged periods of staring at computer screens. We wanted more of this, and the rest as they said is history.

Malhargad

Talking of history, you will not find a more stellar and patriotic history in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries than that of the Maratha Empire. Pune and its surroundings have been the bosom that suckled the Maratha Empire at its birth and the forts (or Gads) scattered all around Pune have been the sinews that nurtured the empire through its infancy and saw it flourish through its adulthood.

These forts, some forty plus in Pune district itself, nestled within the Sahyadri ranges, some built by Marathas, others conquered, then lost and reconquered; some strategic centers of governance, others tactical watch-towers; some with massive vast plateaus, others with narrow incongruous peaks; are what make the treks to the remnants of this glorious era unique and enchanting.

As diverse and unique as they get...

Take Rajgad for instance, a vast fort land that would have been a small settlement unto itself during Shivaji’s reign. It has everything to offer for the adventure seeking soul. It has multiple scenic trails to reach to the top, that are at times an easy ramp and at others a steep, treacherous climb. Once you reach the top, it has grand Darwajas, fortified Maachchis (wings), ponds that still supply drinking water, cisterns, temples, bastions and ramparts, panoramic views all around and the above all a majestic Balekilla (main fort within the fort), from where perhaps Chhatrapati Shivaji issued commandments and battle cries of Swarajya during the 26 years that it remained his prized possession.

One of the many water tanks at Rajgad

Likewise, Torna Fort, also known as Prachandagad (literally ‘massive fort’) not only has the historic significance of being the first fort captured by Shivaji when he was only sixteen years old, but also is the tallest fort in Pune district and offers some of the most mesmerizing views of the rolling mountains of the Sahyadri Ranges.

Panoramic views from Torna

View of Rohida Fort

Or for that matter Rohida Fort (aka Vichitragad) that traces its origins to twelfth century Yadava dynasty. As with many of forts there is sketchy information about its history except that it was under the control of Mohammed Adil Shah till it came under the Marathas under Shivaji Maharaj, only to be handed over to Aurangzeb as part of the Purandar Treaty and subsequently recaptured by Shivaji, all within a period of 15 years. Interesting, isn't it. Not to mention the six magnificent and fairly well maintained bastions (buruj) that are joined by wide walk-able ramparts adorning its borders and providing breath-taking views in any direction you lays your eyes on.

View from Rohida Fort

While history books can tell you about historical events and their chronologies, nothing can be more educative than experiencing the travails and triumphs of the Marathas first-hand, while exploring the vestiges of these forts. These ruined leftovers bear testament to the fact that; although the Marathas were not great artisans or artistes, they certainly were valorous warriors (at times petty but never cowardly). The tactical guerrilla warfare that they formulated from within the ramparts of these forts using the tough Deccan terrains to their advantage, combined with their never-ending pride and bravery enabled them to build one of the greatest ruling confederacies in India.

And finally, after an arduous trek when you reach the top and take the customary photograph, standing alongside the flag post with the saffron flag fluttering joyously against the clear blue sky, one can experience the vicarious pleasure that the Marathas might have felt after conquering a fort!

After conquering the Balekilla at Rajgad

The best time to go trekking in the Sahyadris is from just after the onset of monsoon till about late January - early February. For the sheer joy of trekking monsoons are most sought after, as walking with the clouds and through the waterfall ridden trails can be an exhilarating experience. However, it comes with its risks, at least for the beginner. 

The ideal time according to me is the relatively dry period shortly after the region has received a decent spell of rain. It is at this time that the western ghats come alive. One can see the mountain ranges flush with greenery, the wild plants dancing to the tunes of the south-westerly breeze, their leaves glistening in the golden rays of the sun. The entire landscape becomes a palette, strewn with tiny wild flowers in myriad shapes and shades of violet, yellow and pink that you would otherwise see only on an Asian Paints shade card.

Flora that put shade cards to shame

There is no better way to connect with nature than by experiencing the unsuspecting wonders that it springs upon you. In almost all the treks that we did, we witnessed the seven am skies blushing like a newlywed bride, albeit briefly; gradually revealing the soothing face of the orange sun from behind the hazy mountains only to turn into a flaming ball of fire as the day progressed (PS: any obtuse reference to the life of a married man is purely coincidental).

Blushing meadows

Peek-a-boo

Just like each fort has a unique history, similarly each one them possesses a distinct surrounding.

To the undiscerning eye, it might all seem like mountains all around. But if you observe closely each trail has its unique flora and  landscape. 

Forts like Rajgad and Torna that are located in the Bhor Taluka region are surrounded by the Sahyadri ranges all around. They offer you the unbridled joy of peeping down (with caution of course) from the ridges and see the sheer cliff plunge endlessly into the green valley. 

Forts in the Pawana Maval region (popularly known as ‘Forts near Lonavla’) offer spectacular views of the many lakes that are scattered in this region. 

Take the trek to Tikona Fort for example; the awe one encounters when, after walking through the rocky hills the magnificent Pawana lake suddenly jumps into view, a feeling that can only be described if you experience it in person.

Pawana Lake from Tikona

I have read somewhere that, being closer to nature is like being closer to God. I am not one to fall for cliches but this one I cannot refute. While on these treks, encountering temples of little known local Devis and Devatas along the route not only add to the mysticism but also provide a temporary rest to those aching legs. On the route to Ghangad which winds through a forest trail, half way through you reach a small temple of Garjai Devi nestled amidst dense trees with a stone Deepastambh standing next to a massive fallen tree trunk in front of the temple. The entire setting is simply out of the world. You climb further towards the peak and you see a Mahishasur Mardini statue under the shade of a massive rock that appears to have broken off from the mountain. 

Irshaalgad has Irshaal Devi, Tikona has Chapatdan Maruti and Raireshwar has a temple of the Lord Raireshwar (and the associated story that it was here that Shivaji first took his oath of Swarajya). 

Connect with the Divine

There is indeed something spiritual about being amidst nature and this confluence of The Supreme in Its myriad forms, with nature in its unencumbered glory, reinforces that belief.

The one thing that we haven’t been able to do as much as we would want to, thanks to the pandemic, is connect with the locals that inhabit these ranges. Most of the forts we visited had villages either at the base or at times way up in the hills.  We have watched the villagers from afar, going about their daily seemingly simple but evidently tough lives, as they trudge up and down the mountains in their chappals/slippers or at times bare feet, carrying heavy loads upon their heads. For many of them, we trekkers provide an additional source of income as they set up stalls at places serving nimbu paani, taak, chai, Maggi or hot Pitla Bhakar. Hopefully in our future treks, we get to engage with them more.

Village on the way to Irshalgad

I have not bonded with my family as much as I have during these treks. My ten-year-old son starts planning for the trek at least two weeks in advance, researching every blog or vlog that is there about the Fort (while at it, I would urge you to read his first blog about Ghangad Fort). 

On the previous night of the trek, we prepare the backpacks together, making lemonade and Glucon D, packing snacks and lunch, and getting our humble trekking equipment (comfortable clothes, worn out shoes, caps, sunscreen, first-aid and sturdy canes) ready. The kids wake up early at 5 am as opposed to their usual 10 am. That is a massive five hours off their usual weekend wake up time. They must certainly enjoy going to treks to sacrifice that!  

Most treks we have been to are easily between 1.5 to 2 hours and despite the fact that there is so much to see and experience all around, one has to break the monotony of a continuous hike. Hence, on the way up the mountain, we identify landmarks and give them distinct or funny names so that we can identify them again on our way back. 

We named this place The Pandava Point

We make silly jokes and take silly photos. We help each other whenever we encounter some tricky terrain or steep climbs. We complain irritatingly when the going gets really tough. We have our packed lunches together and we try to see every nook and corner of the Fort. 

Prisoner of War

We have forged some unforgettable memories during these trips. For instance;

•  watching the kids sit with their feet hanging in the Padmavati pond at Rajgad while the tiny fish nibble at their feet 
• bravely walking on the ramparts at Vichitragad;
•  getting literally blown away by the strong gust of winds at Tikona or 
• simply sitting on a rock on the way to Raireshwar and staring at the horizon savoring the unending layers of green and blue. 

These are moments I would not trade for anything in the world.

En route to Raireshwar 

On the way back home, we relate to each other our best and worst from the trek and score the trek overall. We enjoy every bit of the day and even long after the day is over we revisit photographs and relive the experience.

If there is one thing that I can claim to have gained in 2020, it is discovering the pleasures of trekking. Add to that, a little bit of health, fitness and a different perspective to life. As I approach, steadily but surely, the golden and oft dreaded number of 50 years I sometimes wonder why I did not do this earlier. As I learnt last year, it is better late than never.

By the way, if you have managed to read this far and are still wondering, “Where are those five reasons why you should go trekking, this guy proclaimed in his title?”, I am pretty sure I don't need to enlist them explicitly. I hope that you have found your five, perhaps even fifteen. While I am not one to claim that there are some life lessons in these treks (though if I dig deeper, I am sure I will find some), but it has certainly been a life enriching experience for me.

Every individual’s need for adventure and the limits they set for themselves varies. For someone it could be scuba diving in the azure blue ocean, for the other it could be bungee jumping from the tallest bridge and for yet another skiing in the snow-capped Alps or climbing the Everest. Trekking to these Forts, none of which is more than 1400 metres high might seem child’s play against those lofty goals, but I would not be exaggerating when I say that the last six months have provided me with the most adventure I have had in my life, at least till now.

Rock formations at Ghangad Fort

If I were allowed the blasphemy of plagiarizing Robert Frost’s poem and give it my own unique twist, I would say:

The Sahyadris are lovely, tall and deep

But I have promises to keep,   

And forts to trek before I sleep,   

And forts to trek before I sleep.

Achieved Nirvana... well almost

PS: Sorry to disappoint you, if you were expecting to find detailed information about each of these Forts. There is enough content on the Internet for just about any Fort you want to visit with tips and preparations required. My intent was simply to relate the collective experience from these treks that we had as a family and hopefully entice a few of you to start trekking if you haven't done one already. And it need not be the Sahyadris; I am sure wherever you reside there are options available locally. But if you are a Punekar and have not yet visited some of these Forts mentioned, I must say you have missed something.

As far as the Iyer family is concerned all I can say is, "We've only just begun..."