Madhya Pradesh – Hindustan Ka Dil

 

Between the years 2006 to 2010, Madhya Pradesh Tourism came up with a series of advertisements to promote the state tourism. With the tagline “Hindustan ka dil dekho”, these fascinating ads, some of the best I had seen on tourism, made me really want to visit MP. (see ads here and here) It took me more than a decade to finally fulfil that wish.

Considering how vast the state is, it was only possible for us to cover, maybe 3 of 4 places over a one-week period. After some back and forth we narrowed down on the northern stretch, comprising Panna > Khajuraho > Orchha > Gwalior, formerly what was part of Vindhya Pradesh, a state formed by merging 36 princely states.

Each of these 4 cities deserve a blog for themselves, but given the amount of time and patience I can garner usually, I have restricted it to one long blog (so pardon the length if it gets a bit tedious)

Panna – A rendezvous with the wild animals

There is not a more magnificent sight than spotting a tiger, emerging from the dense grasslands and ambling along majestically in the wild, not even throwing a casual glance at the hundreds of wildlife lovers queued up on open jeeps, cameras in hand, eagerly waiting to take its click.  Well, that was the dream scenario that I had always imagined I would get to encounter, whenever I went for a tiger safari.  Unfortunately, my luck with spotting tigers had been pretty dismal, with only a ‘blink and you miss’ partial sighting at Jim Corbett and two rather disappointing safari trips at Ranthambore.

As we set out to Panna, the hope of experiencing that scenario I had dreamed of, was very high.

The route from Satna to Panna is pretty uninteresting, as you drive along a narrow straight road with flat plains on either side. The landscape rapidly changes as you approach Panna and a predominantly teak tree littered forestland appears. A short detour takes you to Ken River Lodge, our abode for the next 2 days.

The resort is set across a 50-acre forested estate alongside the beautiful Ken River. The highlight of the estate is the Machaan restaurant built on top of a massive Arjuna tree and provides a lovely view of the Ken river through its serpentine branches. An evening boat-ride (organized by the resort) lets us savour the idyllic terrain. We soak in the lightly foggy winter evening, observing that solitary fisherman sitting on a tyre tube, fishing in the still waters of the river whose levels have receded to reveal the marshy and rocky islands of the river bed. 

Idyllic Ken River alongside Ken River Lodge

We disembark from the boat on a huge rocky island. Watching the smattering of birds flying about with the sun setting in the backdrop, having a cuppa tea and slice of cheese sandwich, provides an ideal start to our vacation. 

The following day, before the break of dawn, we pack ourselves inside the open safari jeep huddling into each other for warmth. An unforeseen delay at the gates of the forest reserve, separates our jeep from the others that started with us. The driver decides to take a different route based on information relayed by another driver and we drive along in anticipation. A little over an hour in the safari and the only animals we have seen is an alert nilgai staring back at us and a herd of sambar deer and spotted deer munching on their morning breakfast.

I am almost giving up hope, when suddenly on a cue from another driver, our driver increases the pace  and manoeuvres the jeep to a spot where a few other jeeps are lined up. There sitting amidst the dense golden grassland, its body hidden, we see the face of a gigantic male tiger (code numbered 243). We get to see the face only for a few seconds and before I can focus my camera to get a shot, the striped gentleman turns around and walks away nonchalantly, allowing me a enough time to only capture a few shots of his regal gait from behind. Not quite the sighting that I had dreamed of, but the experience is exhilarating nevertheless. 

Kahan bhaag raha hai? Tu Sher hai ya geedad?

It seems to have opened up our luck as, after sometime we get to see a leopard trying to sneak up on a mother and baby sambar deer. The hustle created by all the jeeps alerts the deer as they scamper away leaving the leopard prey-less for that moment.  

While the day safari was quite satisfactory, we get to do an equally enjoyable night safari later in the evening. Even though the sightings are scarce, just the feeling of sitting in an open jeep surrounded by the silent darkness of the forest, driving along the uneven terrain not knowing where you are heading, the chilly winds numbing your nose, is something worth doing just for the thrill. Add the joy of seeing a large fish owl swoop from one tree to another and I must say it was a “paisa vasool” experience.

Khajuraho – Where the sculptures talk to you

Panna to Khajuraho is a short distance of 1 hr. However, it would be worth your while to take a slight detour to the Ken Gharial Sanctuary and Raneh Falls. 

What you see when you take detours ... 1

What you see when you take detours .... 2

The crocodile sanctuary is house to mugger and gharial crocodiles which you can spot basking in the hot sunny morning, from a height of over 100 ft. A binocular is needed to see them closely, which the local guides provide at a reasonable price.

Talk of canyons and the Grand Canyon is what most people can think of. But one doesn’t need to travel that far to see a canyon. India too is home to about 10 canyons and gorges. Raneh Falls is a lesser known canyon in India, a stretch of 5ms of gorge on the river Ken created over several hundred thousand years ago, comprising of 5 differently coloured igneous rock namely granite (pink), jasper (red), basalt (black), dolomite (green), and quartz (white). Definitely worth the detour.

Raneh Falls

We reach Khajuraho just before noon and after a quick lunch head over to see the famed temples of Khajuraho. Words cannot do justice to describe this marvel. Our enthusiastic guide, gave us a historical background. Built between the 800 – 1000 AD period commissioned by the Chandela kings, Khajuraho is the ultimate representative of Indian architectural brilliance and presents the entire gamut of adult life as per Hindu scriptures covering Dharma (duty), Artha (wealth), Kama (pleasure) and Moksha (salvation).

As you traverse from one temple complex to other, the intricate carvings mesmerize you. It would take reams of paper to describe every single sculpture that cover every single inch of the temples’ façade. As opposed to the temples of the south, that focus on iconography of the various forms of God, Khajuraho has relatively fewer, albeit blissful images of the Gods like Varaharoopam, Ganesha, Lakshmi Narayana and Narasimha. 

The monolithic stone statue of Varaha in front of the Lakshmana temple, with hundreds of sages carved all over its body is a unique piece that combines art with devotion.

A large portion of the sculptures that adorn the outside walls of the 5 temples in the main complex (also known as Western Group of temples) are dedicated to imagery related to everyday life.

 Be it the one depicting the shy damsel adorning herself while looking into a mirror or,  the one where a dancer is getting a doctor to treat her foot for a thorn injury; be it the one which depicts a bathing lady, her necklace hanging carelessly on her arched back or the one where a couple, lovers that are locked in a passionate embrace are deeply engrossed in each other’s eyes oblivious to the attendants standing nearby. The minute attention paid to every detail, be it the eyes, the expressions, the posture and even the fabric of the garment make these lifelike sculptures speak out to you.

Stone that speak to you

Not an inch to spare

Even the famed erotic sculptures, albeit only a small fraction of the total sculpted area, while being graphic in detail, signify the transition of humans from carnal to spiritual. As explained by our guide, who by virtue of being a follower of Osho had a special appreciation for those images, the only route to Moksha is to have fulfilled the compulsions of Dharma, Artha and Kama.

We move on to the Eastern Group of temples to see the two main temples which are dedicated to the Jain thirthankaras Parsavnath and Adinath. The sculptures are just as rich in detail and finesse and are predominantly depicting devas, apsaras in various dance poses, musicians and other mythical creatures.

As we drive down from Khajuraho to Orchha zipping past the dark green wheat fields, interlaced with bright yellow patches of mustard fields (think DDLJ), my thoughts reflect back upon the magnificent monuments we had witnessed the previous day.

Mustard fields

Orchha – The hidden gem

‘Orccha ka na koi oar hai na koi chhor’ (There is no beginning or end to Orchha) is how an auto rickshaw driver described his lovely town to my brother.

Jahangir Palace

Circa the year 2000-2001, as a young IT professional, I had the opportunity to visit more cities in Europe than I had visited in India at that time. A trip to Bruges in Belgium had made me fall in love with the sleepy medieval vibe of the city. More than two decades later, I find another city, right in the heartland of India, whose languid vibe, almost as if time had held it back a couple of centuries, weaves a web of magic that makes you want more.

Even as we set foot into the luxurious Amar Mahal Hotel, the layout, architecture and décor all exude a shahi feeling. After a long, lazy lunch at Café Nomad (recommended if you have time in hand) from where you get a beautiful view of the Chaturbhuj Temple, we amble along the sparsely crowded roads to the famed Chhatris (cenotaphs) of Orchha by the banks of the Betwa river. The Chhatris, fourteen of them, were built in memory of the local rulers, the Bundelas  during the 17^th / 18^th century. Built on a square platform, these 3-store structures have arched doors and windows lined on all four sides and a spired dome on top. 

These domes have become home to Indian vultures. You can often see them perched atop one of the domes like a gargoyle on a gothic monument.

Vulture on top of Chhatri

The beige-pink walls have blackened with time and add to the mysticism of these chhatris.  We watch the monuments turn from pink to golden to orange to black as the sun begins to seek the horizon.

Chattris at sunset

As darkness engulfs the city, we walk down to the Shri Ram Raja mandir, the only Ram temple where Lord Ram is worshipped as a king. A huge crowd has thronged to witness the evening Aarti while I relate to my son the interesting backstory of the history behind the Raja Ram mandir and why the idol is located at the current spot, originally the queen’s palace as opposed to the Chaturbhuj temple which was originally constructed to house Lord Rama. (Read here )

Raj Ram Mandir

The next day is spent at the magnificently designed and well-maintained Raja Mahal and adjoining to it is the Jahangir Mahal (so named because the Bundela Raja Vir Singh Deo who had commissioned the palace got it completed to coincide with Emperor Jahangir’s visit to Orchha). 

The symmetrical canopies, windows and balconies built in Indo Muslim architecture are a photographer’s delight and make for an excellent backdrop to click family pictures.

 

Hindu architecture inside Jahangir Palace 

While showing us the entrance that Jahangir took to enter the palace, our guide makes us an offer. “Sir. why don’t you join me for a morning walk tomorrow and I will show you the best sunrise you have seen.” We take up the offer (more on that coming up).

Next, we visit the Chaturbhuj Temple, a simple and elegant structure with tall spires, the tallest of them being 344 ft tall. Originally built to house the Ram idol that eventually got placed in the Raja Ram Mandir, the temple now houses a Vishnu idol. The interiors are devoid of any fancy sculptures and looks quite barren from inside in contrast to its grand appearance from outside.

Chaturbhuj Temple

Most of the group is tired but not my son and nephew. They want to see the bhool-bhulaiya, which is essentially a narrow-enclosed parapet that circum-ambulates the periphery of the temple across 3 levels and takes you right up the top via a network of narrow stairs. An interesting setup.

Thereafter, we head towards the Laxmi Narayan temple, the third important temple in the city that combines the looks of a small fort with that of a temple and has some interest hand painted murals on the walls and ceilings. 

Laxmi Narayan Temple

We end the day watching the sun set behind the majestic Kalpavriksha, a massive baobab tree that locals believe to grant you any wish that you whisper to it.

Kalpavriksha

Day 2 at Orchha has been thoroughly engrossing, a visual delight but the best is yet to come. Coming back to the guide’s offer, the next morning we leave the hotel before the break of dawn to meet our guide behind the Jahangir Palace. Dawn breaks to the chirping and fluttering of parakeets, mynas,  rufous treepies and peacocks. We wait patiently as the horizon looks a bit hazy and clouded. Would it be our unlucky day? Thankfully the sun manages to overshadow the clouds and we witness a captivating sunrise that streaks the mildly cloudy skies in hues of saffron.

Sunrise at Orchha

We proceed for a lazy walk along an off-beaten dust track, with wheat fields on either side that takes us past some smaller heritage structures and an abandoned temple that houses to our delight, a parliament of spotted owlets (I admit, I googled that collective noun). We end our walk at the banks of the river Betwa and as we head back, the golden sunlight filtering through the dense trees lights up the city, offering us spectacular views of the domes atop the Jahangir palace.

Jahangir Palace

How can one not fall in love with such a magical city? As we board our bus, I get a feeling that my tryst with Orchha has yet another chapter someday in the future.

Gwalior - where royalty reigns

Driving through Gwalior, the afternoon sun beating surprisingly harshly for a winter day, in stark contrast to Orchha I find the city to be like any other north India city; crowded, dusty and chaotic with narrow roads and lacking the development that a city ruled by one of the richest royal families of India, ought to have.

Our hotel Neemrana Deo Bagh, a heritage hotel, thankfully retains the royal touch with it sprawling green lawns surrounded by guava and grapefruit trees, stone-walled rooms and a hoard of peacocks/peahens moving about in gay abandon. We spend the afternoon relaxing and savouring some the heritage structures inside the hotel premises, such as the chattis-dari (36 pillared pavilion) and the family temples.

An evening trip to Maharaj Bada via the crowded streets is not as rewarding despite the glorious European structures that surround the square.  The famed S S Kachoriwala however, does not disappoint as we satiate our appetite with kachoris and samosas. Finally, we end the evening packing our bags with Gwalior’s famous gajak.

Day 2 at Gwalior turns out to be, sharply in contrast to Day 1, cold and foggy with visibility less than 50 feet. We head over to the Gwalior Fort expecting it to be a disappointing experience due to poor visibility. Thankfully, the fog gradually begins to clear, the sun still hidden from view, and we stand admiring the beautiful façade of the Man Mandir palace that is lined with bright aqua blue and yellow tiles. Gwalior’s most popular postcard picture monument was built by Man Singh Tomar in the 15^th century.

Man Mandir Palace: Not quite postcard perfect - thanks to the fog

Inside of the palace is even more beautiful. Our guide takes us through the magnificent courtyard into some of the elaborately architected rooms. One such room is the music room where the famous singer Tansen used to teach Man Singh’s eight wives, while they sat behind intricately carved stone windows looking at the music teacher through mirrors placed in the room. 

A couple of levels below is a circular room believed to be a indoor swimming pool for the queens, which later under the Mughals became a torture chamber.

Outside the palace one gets to see other  historical, somewhat dilapidated structures such as the Vikram Mahal, Chattri of Bhim Singh Rana and other pavilions from the Mughal era.

Chhatri of Bhim Singh Rana

Within the fort campus at a 2 km distance from the Man Mandir palace, are some ancient temples namely the twin Saas-Bahu Mandir, built in the 11 century and the uniquely structured Teli ka Mandir which is a 9^th century relic. Both these temples have undergone significant refurbishment but represent the  ancient glory of the rulers of the region. 

The fort also houses the Gurudwara Data Bandi Chorh Sahib.  Guru Hargobind Singh Ji was imprisoned by Jahangir in the Gwalior Fort along with 52 Rajputs. It is said that on Diwali festival the emperor agreed to release him but the Guru insisted that the Rajputs also be released. The emperor agreed that whoever holds him while leaving the prison could go with him. The Guru brought with him all the Rajputs by holding on to his long robe.

In Conclusion

Since the past 3-4 years we have explored only domestic tourist destinations spanning North East, North and South of the country, and India never ceases to amaze me. This was our first sojourn with the heartland of India, Madhya Pradesh and evidently it is one of the most underrated states for tourism. In that seven days we spent here we had the best of wildlife, nature, architecture, history and serendipity. And we wanted more...

As the ad rightly proclaims - MP se dil bhar, bhar na bhar paaye

Pro Tips

• It is advisable that you hire guides at Khajuraho, Orchha and Gwalior Fort. There is so much history behind these grand monuments that having a trained guide will make your visits worthwhile.
• Orchha Guide - Sunil Kumar (9993507993) contact him for early morning walk
• Where we stayed:
• Panna - Ken River Lodge (outstanding)
• Khajuraho - Ramada by Wyndham (excellent)
• Orchha - Amar Mahal (outstanding)
• Gwalior  - Neemrana Deo Bagh (excellent)
• We booked our trip via Nivalink (www.nivalink.com). Highly recommend them for pre-booked tours as they get the best hotels
• What we gave a miss:
• Southern Group of temples at Khajuraho
• Jai Vilas Palace at Gwalior
•  Travel Mode
• Mumbai to Satna by train
• Satna >> Panna >> Khajuraho >> Orchha >> Gwalior by road
• Gwalior to Mumbai by train
• There are flights from Mumbai to Gwalior as well as Khajuraho
• Let-down of the trip:
• Sound and light show at Khajuraho
• Gwalior city in general